as I paddled out in the surf this morning, the rain sprinkled down.... but it was light, and warm, and made the waves glassy
it has been good surfing the same spot for a few days in a row.... getting to know a few faces.... and having nice chats with nice folk
I try and stay awake tonight to watch a really interesting show, but my eyes are closing and my shoulders are aching..... surfed out.... that's good
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