I surfed the point early this morning.... the water was like glass. So clean and sparkly. The sun was shining so brightly it made the whole ocean shimmer.
there was an old boy out in the surf today. He sat on his board looking out to sea, and shouted 'Come on Huey*...' every now and then. He was totally content.... floating, in the early morning sunshine. It made me realise, surfers are such simple souls. I am proud to be one.
Home after work, and relieved that I have 4 days off to focus on what really lights me up. I take some time to wind down, and watch 2 episodes of New Girl. I love that show...so goofy and so funny
* for those who you who don't surf.... Huey is the God who creates waves..... I guess it's a mythical story, but it's awesome all the same
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