bigger waves, old passport pictures and the smell of our bbq

the swell has picked up and I enjoy paddling out in bigger waves than we've had recently. The little adrenaline hit when you take off and feel the drop.

I have put 2 old passport photos in my wallet. They remind me of very happy days and simple lives. They urge me to get back to that place.

We light up the little BBQ in the backyard, and cook ourselves a little feast. After dinner, as I'm going to bed, I can smell the smoke in my hair. It reminds me of bonfires on the beach and summer BBQs.