an amazing friend who I haven't seen for years swung past today..... we had lunch, hung out and then surfed..... he only had a couple of hours to spare on his trip but it was a little injection of happiness and friendship that was much needed and much appreciated
we surfed the point, and unlike most days when it is a friendly little wave, it was pretty huge, with mountain like walls of water coming at you every few minutes. I certainly didn't realise that it was that big until I got out there..... yikes ...... but it felt good to get a few of those 'crikey, what is she doing out here' looks from the locals
after a much needed post surf yoga session (with water dripping out of my nose constantly), I rested my aching shoulders from the big paddle mission today
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