a surf with an old friend..... the waves were pretty small, but felt so good to share them with Nic
I realised today one of the reasons why surfing is so good for the soul...... it doesn't matter where you are in the world, if you are in the ocean, you are somehow connected to your home beach and surf.... and that makes me feel happy
we went across the road to watch the rugby tonight..... so France didn't win, but they played well, and we hung out, laughed, and ate pizza.
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