there was such an awesome buzz in the surf today.... everyone was having a super fun time and you could really feel it. At one point, this old guy (who reminds me a little of a polar bear, with his bright white hair and big tummy), came hurtling down the face of a wave on his belly. It was one of the bigger sets of the morning, and it would have been so easy for everyone to be annoyed.... but you could see the pure joy on this guys face, he was sooo stoked. He waited till he'd gotten to the bottom of the wave, and then finally stood up. Everyone cheered and laughed....it was amazing
Jeff got home today..... the sun was setting and we were checking a few places to surf. We were running out of light so when we pulled up at Emerald back beach and decided to just run over with our boards. It was pumping.
post surf, nothing beats pizza..... nothing
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